Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
